It’s All Happening

Sorry for the lag between posts, but I’ve been recovering from the flu, planning my little girls second birthday party and chasing a couple of swells. 

When I last touched base I was heading down to the Central Coast for the swell at The Zone. We got down there at about 10.30 at night, got some dodgy accommodation and woke early to the howling of the wind and the sound of waves. After throwing down a cup of tea we zipped up the headland to the checkpoint. Half onshore winds and a chunky 6-8 foot swell greeted us; it wasn’t ideal conditions, but we had the ski and no one was out.

The wind felt like it was coming off snow-capped mountains and putting on a wet wettie took a lot of psyching up. Eventually we headed out the entrance of the river mouth to the raw ocean that was hitting the coast. It was the first time I’d used the ski in a while and it felt so good to get back on the old girl.

The waves were a decent size, but the winds were a bit suss. Jones [Russell] was keen for a paddle so I sat on the ski and watched. Before I knew it he had a few crackers under his belt. Finally we swapped positions and as fate had it the conditions slowed, but I still got a couple. After an hour or so I hoped back on the ski and we got out of there.

A couple days later it was Siena’s second birthday. All week she had been saying, “when’s birthday, daddy?” She has grown up so much. Being a dad is the best thing in the world, every word she says – every little funny thing she does – melts me big time! I think she’s the most gorgeous little girl on earth and I was stoked she had a great day.

Straight after that I got sick as a dog. It’s not very often that I’m bed ridden but I was. You don’t appreciate your health till you get sick, and all I could think about was getting on the mend.

Now I’m feeling better and I can’t wait to get on my new board that I picked up the other day. It’s got my new colours, which I will be running with for the next six months or so. I think they look pretty good and I’m looking forward to getting into some good waves.

If you’re not risking anything, you’re not on the right track. Haha inspiration!

Comments

  1. Jorge said:

    Hope you are better now and that you’re rested a little after this busy time. Siena is growing fast man!
    Do you two know that there is a variety of colors in little girls clothing??? pink is okay but…
    Regards and keep posting!

  2. Carlos said:

    You’re absolutely right about being a parent, Kingy. I’m in love with my little boy right now. Only a couple months old but the smallest gesture, a smile, whatever and we turn to mush. It’s disgusting, really 🙂
    Good to know you’re still giving the best waves to the youngsters, but get back on the horse once and for all. Mike Stewart and GT call us groms and they’re ripping!
    Cheers and have fun.
    P.S. Gonna miss our sardines this year.

  3. Jolan said:

    Nice one Kingy! I know how you feel – I too have a daughter, a 4 year old. The best ever. Wait till you get her out of nappies, so good after that haha.

  4. Damian King said:

    Ha pink Jorgie… okay, the next post I’ll dress her/him in “blue”. You will like the next article too – I’m going to take you camping with this guy and hopefully you come back ALIVE!!!

    Congratulations again Carlos – yeah, I know what you mean. I used to get turned off by people always going on about their kids, till I had my little girl. It’s something that only we will understand I think. As for getting back on the horse… check out the latest GQS rankings… and then sing my favourite song, “it’s only the beginning…” Haha!

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