Home Time

If you didn’t know, I got knocked in Round 3 against Mitch [Rawlins] and Dallas [Singer]. Not the result I was looking for, however, I feel that I surfed fairly well throughout South America and I have a priceless treasure waiting for me on the other end of this flight. 

Firstly, what a heat that was with Mitch and Dallas. Beaten fair and square in the last minute, fuck! I could’ve pushed it a bit harder on the waves I had, but it was far from a lame effort though. I’m disappointed ‘cause I just started to feel like I was getting into a rhythm and was looking forward to pushing it in some of the death man on man heats, but it just didn’t happen.

As a whole, South America has been pretty successful. I had a 5th at Antofagasta and a 2nd in the Arica Trails and now have the points to walk away from the qualifying tour. Also, I released the Podcast over here and it seems that people like it, which I’m stoked about. Yes, I’d like to still be in the comp, but when you have a daughter as gorgeous as mine there is something even better waiting for you when you get home.

I’ve tried to block my life at home out and focus on the job here, but now it’s time to let that thirst to get home explode ‘cause I’m about to hop on the plane. I’m really looking forward to the next six months of not competing. I want to do a lot of surfing in good waves and hopefully bring you the vision from that.

If you have nothing to do, I’ve just put up a little speech I got roped into in Hawaii (rubber arm though). I probably won’t leave it on here for long, so enjoy it while it lasts.

Finally, I’d like to throw out a big thank you to Yoyo and a get well to Diego Cabrera, both some of the biggest legends you’ll ever meet!

See ya in Oz!


  1. Geoff said:

    What are you doing if you’re not competing for 6 months?

  2. Chan said:

    From Le Boogie, “Fatherhood has been kind to almost all who’ve undertaken it in the pro boog ranks of late. Winchester’s focus; unquestionable. Hardy’s perspective seems to relax him in just the right way to keep calm and flick the switch when needed. Tamega and Stewart are old hats at the parenting game. But what about Damian? King’s most successful runs seem to have come when he’s able to be single-minded and selfish, not exactly a hand-in-hand pairing with parenthood. The thing for me about Kingston; I reckon if he was in the right mindset he could win another world title, possibly even without too much hassle. His force of will alone is that strong. But you gotta want it, and in 2012 I honestly don’t reckon he gives a fuck. King’s biggest strength (aside from the brute strength in his wharfy forearms) is his competitive fire. Unfortunately at present it seems to be burning with the ferocity of a smoky pile of eucalyptus leaves. – NL”

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