Big Day Tomorrow!

My first heat [in the Pipe Challenge] hits the water tomorrow afternoon, and there’s more then enough swell for it! It’s predicted to be in the 10 foot range, and although I’m nervous, I’m really excited at the same time. I think some amazing things are going to happen tomorrow and I want to be ready when that opportunity comes.

There’s one thing that I hate in contests… crappy waves! But tomorrow is looking like the best conditions I’ve had to compete in for years so there are no excuses! 10 foot offshore pits with four guys out, it’s what dreams are made of and I want to really enjoy it. A lot of the time you probably see highlight clips of waves on the tour which look epic, but the truth is (in my opinion) most of the time the conditions the heats are held in are very ordinary. However, Pipe is different. Pipe is a world-class wave without question. The person who wins this event, in these waves, is the best rider in the best waves, and for me that’s the best bodyboarder in the world. If you win this contest you are the best bodyboarder in the world right now. This is one comp that I would really like to win again!

I have Chase O’Leary in my first heat and although he’s a rookie in his first year on the tour, I won’t underestimate him. The other two competitors will be coming through from Round 3 and 4 so they will have a bit of confidence under their belt. I’ve done 16 sessions over here and I believe that will show tomorrow. So touch wood, hope things go well.

Big Pipe, wow! I want to really feel my way on the wave, not surf for points but for myself, the way I would if I was free surfing.  I’d like to be completely comfortable out there, with the thirst for the bombs! However, big Pipe is intimidating no matter who you are and when a 12 foot double up wedging ledger challenges you, it’s a fight of the bottom turn to the death. It’s a hard wave to ride and read, which makes it the ultimate challenge.

We have the priority system in the heats so choosing the right waves will play a big part, which is usually a weakness of mine. As long as I’m aware of it, then I think I’ll be sweet. But stranger things have happened, so it’s important to take it as it comes. The heats from there [Round 5] are stacked all the way, but as someone once told me, “take each heat at a time, each wave, and every inch, will count”.

Shit, it’s on tomorrow!


  1. Adam Anderson said:

    Good luck Kingy. If you can surf like you free surf, another Pipe title awaits!

  2. Leota said:

    You can do it again!!! XX

  3. Aaron W said:

    Good luck kingy!!! Your time!!!

  4. kdizzle said:

    Ol’ King dingaling is odds on favourite to throw a spin in a 10ft pipe pit. CHAAARRRRRGGEE!!! Good luck mate.

  5. Jorge said:

    Go Damian!!!

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