Behind The Ad # 8

The session that Gurns [photographer Chris Gurney] shot this ad [Le Boogie 8] was about a week after the Box Pro had wrapped up. It was a relatively uncrowded day due to the fact that most of the guys in town for the comp had already gone home.

The swell was pretty raw and South which often deters the crowd as a lot of waves shut down or mutate. Whenever the tide is high out there though, regardless of size or direction, there will be some makeable nuggets and that was the case this day. There were only a handful of us out which always helps in being able to have the space to select your waves better.

This wave in particular was probably halfway through the session – about mid morning – the sun was out and the tide was at it’s highest so the better waves were looking really nice. I remember that it was my turn on the peak and this wave was doubling up onto the heaviest part of the reef, just down from the takeoff, so I paddled as deep as I could to get a good scoop and have the drive off the bottom to speed through it.

The thing I remember most about this wave was pretty much the exact moment when the photo was taken. I’d scooped in and leaned forward into my driving bottom turn and I was dead in the flats of the square barrel. I knew I was deep and I could feel that the suck off the reef was really strong, almost as though my nose could go under at any second. It’s usually in those moments that I squash my torso down a little lower to put all my weight over the board, against the suck, to ensure that I have the control over my board and not the wave. This pushed me through the barrel and I even got a finishing bowl at the end after it spat that I flipped out of.

That was probably the best wave from start to finish that I caught that day. It was a pretty textbook wave at Box; a nice entry, a fast, heaving pit that spits and a wrapping end bowl to launch off. Such a sick bodyboarding wave!

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