Behind The Ad # 6

The day the shot in this ad [Le Boogie 6] was taken, I was still living in Perth and had taken the gamble to try our luck on what looked like a possible cross-shore day with a borderline big enough swell at Medge [Mandurah Wedge]. Chaddy J [Chad Jackson], Stoney [Jake Stone] and I went down with Whitey’s [Chris White] camera planning to do some take-turn filming for Whitey’s new film Blow Up while Gurney [photographer Chris Gurney] convoyed down with us.

Upon first check at sunrise we saw it was cross shore and barely breaking and pretty much laughed at it, wrote it off and went to McDonalds for breakfast.

We gathered morale and headed back after an hour hoping for a little kick in the swell. The wind had certainly kicked and the swell had too, marginally.  It took a huge effort to convince Stoney and Chaddy to hang around ‘cause it looked rank. No one was out and with nothing much better to do I conned them into a session. On my walk around the rocks to jump in, I knocked on Gurney’s car window and said “Man, we’ve driven an hour and a half down here so we’re just gonna go out and wait for a set. At least there’s no one out!”

Begrudgingly he setup in the wind alongside Chaddy after he opted to film first and leave Stoney and I to be the guinea pigs.

The invert in this ad was my first wave of the day. I’d just jumped off the rocks, Stoney was still putting his fins on and the biggest set of the morning so far came through. I caught the second wave that had a nice wedge bouncing off the rocks; I got speed off the side wave and gained even more as I flew off the oncoming ramp. I went further across in the air than I did out and ended up landing just on top of the lip, not making the boost but excited at the air I got.

I paddled back out to Stoney with a face of excitement and said “there actually could be some good ones today!” We ended up having a pretty fun session each filming 45 minutes from the rocks and then surfing for an hour and a half. There were long waits in between sets but ‘cause there was just two of us sharing waves with a couple of other guys it made it worthwhile. I ended up getting a few air reverses in during my time in the water but it was this invert on my first wave that earned me the best shot. Guess it pays to hang around and just give it a crack sometimes!

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