Behind The Ad # 36

This trip in January took us from Merimbula, New South Wales to Margaret River, Western Australia. It lasted one month from start to finish and was a great trip but we were all pretty crazy and wild by the end.

The photo from this ad [Movement 36] was shot in the South Australian desert during a session that was the best in my life, so far. It was just Kristian [Gerathy] and I surfing for about four hours in perfect offshore, four to five foot waves with Ben Lee [photographer] shooting and Brodie Miatke filming. Ben was shooting fisheye and was looking for a good bowl that one of us could get launched off, and I was in the right place at the right time. I’m pretty sure that this is the same landing that left me winded and unable to breathe for a while, but the result was well worth it.

I got up just before sunrise, and after being in the desert for one and a half weeks already, I was super tired. I unzipped my swag and walked out from behind the sand dunes, where we had been sleeping for the past few days, to the checking spot at the top of the dunes. I had my torch with me ‘cause I had been told that there had been a few snakes hanging around. I couldn’t see much and was so tired that I must have had the fuzzies I think, because I thought that the surf was onshore. So, half asleep, I walked back to my swag for a quick nap before everyone else got up.

Suddenly I was awoken to Ben going “you were meant to check the surf this morning grom, and wake us up if it was good!” I wasn’t sure if he was trying to stir me up and get my hopes up or not, so I walked out and went to the checking spot again. Sure enough, it was pumping! I ran back down the dunes not thinking about the snakes or anything, had a quick bowl of home brand cereal with powdered milk, suited up and ran down to the surf. I still managed to paddle out five minutes before both Kristian and Ben.

After a few hours of pumping waves, we came in, slept, and then headed out again for an afternoon session. It was a bit smaller by then and the wind was cross shore so we decided to go out at this other wave, a wedging left that breaks perfectly. Although it was another fun session, there were no photos that really stood out from it. Kristian went in so Ben and I decided to go out for a half an hour or so at the same right hander as the morning. It was pretty onshore and a bit scary being the only one out the back waiting for waves in the middle of South Australia. That night we all were pretty tired, we had plain rice and sauce for dinner and hopped in our swag early with big grins on our faces.

This shot is my favourite that I have ever had; it reminds me of that whole day of surfing amazing waves in the middle of the desert with no one around for hundreds of kilometres!

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