Behind The Ad # 184

The day that the photo for this ad was taken [Riptide 184, shot by Nick Bannehr] in late August was one of my last surfs before tour. The waves were looking bad at home so we decided to try our luck down South for a quick two day hit and run mission. The forecast still didn’t look the best down there but we figured we’d have a better chance with a few more options.

This morning the swell had a bit of morning sickness and everywhere was a bit weird, but I had a feeling there would be a few out there. I hadn’t surfed this spot before and have been wanting to hit it for ages. On the way there we got a call from a mate that said it was okay, a bit funky, but we figured we’d just hit it and hope for the best. When we rocked up Nick [Ormerod] was already there so I knew we’d get something; Nick’s my lucky charm for surf, whenever I surf with him somehow there is always good waves.

As we jumped off the rocks a few sick slabs came through and it started to clean up. A few local groms were out and Matt [Young] was sitting on his ski waiting for it to turn on. A seal was flopping around on the inside and the waves started to turn on. I was losing my mind on stoke, yelling and screaming for someone to go as soon as a wave came. I felt like a 10 year old kid seeing his first barrel. It was great, everyone got some fun ones, and a few draggings over the waterfall.

This wave in particular came in a little wider than the rest. I was going any wave that broke and had just caught a slab so I was still paddling back out when this rogue stood up. It hit a touch wider and kind of put everyone on the take off a little deep so I scrambled out and swung into the drop. I can remember the barrel just turning to glass as it ran along the ledge. I lined up a flip off the end bowl and landed straight on the ledge and got dragged, but it was a smoker. The rest of the surf, and the following day, was sick… some of the funnest waves I’ve had all year, but the glass on this wave just made the trip for me. Two days, two surfs, great times.

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