Behind The Ad # 179

The shot used in this ad [Riptide 179] is from my local reef in October. This Spring was really kind to us, it’s meant to be a time of the year filled with 1 foot Northerly mush but there were plenty of good days at the reefs around home; a solid swell with clean winds almost every week.

A couple of days before this photo was taken was actually some of the biggest and best waves I’ve seen at Cudgen; legit 6 to 8 foot, pretty lengthy pits and only a few of us out. Early on the high tide it looked too rogue for anyone to be able to swim out and shoot, which admittedly would’ve been really hard with the wash throughs. Needless to say I was pretty excited, the forecast looked good for the next couple of days too.

The next day was decent, not epic. Then there was this day, the third, which was also pretty damn good. It started out a little smaller than ideal, some good ones but a little anti climatic given the forecast for the day and the waves the previous days. The old rumour mill had been in full swing and sure enough, all the ‘heard about it yesterday’ crew was there too.

Eventually a few of the numbers got sick of dealing with the crowd and bailed, and even though it was inconsistent, it started to get a bit bigger. Some of the waves I saw come through later this morning were as good as anywhere. A couple of waves that stand out in my mind; one of Ash Bryant’s, an incredible pit, and also one that my brother Simon got [page 56 and 57, Riptide 179], a really intense one. I remember thinking I’d hardly need to travel for waves if was like that more often!

The wave in this photo was a bit of a wide one; hence me being on the outside of Alex [Alex Ormerod, photographer and Nick’s younger brother] in the shot, rather than the usual angle of looking into the barrel. These wide waves hit the corner of the reef pretty hard; you can actually see it hooking around on the edge of the reef. Turned out to be a nice backdoor section with a bowl afterwards to wash off the speed with a carve. Alex got the job done as usual, he called me over to check out the shot as I paddled back out, and even looking at the small camera screen we knew it was a keeper.

Those three days were really refreshing and exciting after what had been a pretty slow year for that particular patch of rock. A good little reminder of just how good the spot gets.

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